Estimated 1/4 Times??

saintg2005 · Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:15 pm

Hey guys I haven't been on here in awhile, but I getting my quaterpanel and door finally fixed Feb 16th. I'm trying to figure out what quarter mile time I can expect when I go to Rock Falls this summer.
Mods:
AEM Cold Air Intake
Ported Tsudo 4-2-1 Headers
Yonaka Cat Back Exhaust
Ported Throttle Body
Screamin' Demon Coil Pack and Wires
Bosch Plat+4 Spark PLugs
Kent Stage 4 Cams
Fidanza Adjustable Cams Gears
Massive Speed Underdrive Pulley
Then coming June first is:
Clutchmaster Stage 4 Clutch
Fidansa 8.5 Flywheel
Quaife Limited Slip Differential

Right now I think I'm running 130SAE Horsepower but it is also an automatic. Once it gets swapped and I get the clutch and stuff I should get way more through to the flywheel/wheel. Let me know what you guys htink. Thanks a lot!

Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:16 pm

automatic? 15.9

saintg2005 · Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:18 pm

I'm talking about after I swap it to a manual and put in the clutch, flywheel, and limited slip

Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:00 pm

oh.. my mistake.

i'd expect low to mid 15's running that setup. Although you should look into FI if you want a car that can fast. It's near impossible to make decent power NA on a Focus. Ask Pitch Black or Elite Korri, they've both gone that route.

saintg2005 · Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:38 pm

Whats FI? Fuel injectors?Yea I know what You mean about the power I've heard that before but I have major things in store for my focus. I'm having a motor built (crower stroker kit, ported head etc) for a 8.5 compression and then boost factory is hooking me up cause they need a focus front man for the twin cities. So I'm definately going the power adder route but I wanted to find out what my times would be after the trans swap[/b]

sc0tty8 · Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:27 am

Screamin' Demon Coil Pack and Wires
Bosch Plat+4 Spark PLugs

Ditch that garbage.

Run OEM plugs and OEM ignition. The crappin' deamons is junk and bosch plugs suck the big balls.

I would guess mid-high 15's on the 1/4 with a stick.

saintg2005 · Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:00 am

You really dont think they help huh? I mean what do I know about that crap but I thought it would atleast help somewhat. Only 15's? i thought I would hit high 14's. Oh I forgot to write that I have a SCT chip too and run 93 octane because of my cam timing. I wanted it agressive but not too aggressive like for race fuel. If this changes anything let me know. Which is better cold air intake or a short ram with and hood w/scoop cause I get a cabron SS hood in June during the swap.

Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:26 am

High 15's. Unless you run drag radials or slicks.

sc0tty8 · Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:34 pm

Unless your hatch is gutted, high mid-high 15's. gutted hatch, good driver, then mid-high 14's.

saintg2005 · Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:04 pm

It just so happens that you read my mind cause I do have a gutted hatch I just can't figure out how to take off the plastic paneling on the rear quarterpanels and I don't want to force them because it looks like they're up against the glass. Anyone know how ot gte those out? Yea and I'll be running slicks at the end of the summer too. So Times with slicks and gutted hatch

sc0tty8 · Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:44 am

Pull harder.

Some kid on Fj was turning mid 14's with a gutted hatch.

You want to get rid of any of the interior stuffs for like, nothing?

Thu Feb 02, 2006 5:49 pm

To get the rear covers out, you need to first remove the cover by where your front belts come out. Then in the back part of the rear panel there are two "plugs" that hold it in. Pull this out (it is virtually impossible to save them, don't worry though as they are worth like $.10 each). Then just wiggle it on out. There are some clips in the back holding it into the shell, and as you wiggle they will pop out. Kinda hard to explain, I had to pull em once before, get a hanes, it's all in there.
Nils

BTW: You aren't gonna shave a whole second from a gutted hatch...

sc0tty8 · Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:55 pm

Pappy wrote: To get the rear covers out, you need to first remove the cover by where your front belts come out. Then in the back part of the rear panel there are two "plugs" that hold it in. Pull this out (it is virtually impossible to save them, don't worry though as they are worth like $.10 each). Then just wiggle it on out. There are some clips in the back holding it into the shell, and as you wiggle they will pop out. Kinda hard to explain, I had to pull em once before, get a hanes, it's all in there.
Nils

BTW: You aren't gonna shave a whole second from a gutted hatch...

gut the ac and power steering, bumper shocks, and, run a 100 shot of nos with that car.

c4uldr0n · Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:04 am

*cough* yeah */cough*... I put any and every bolt on possible for my car:

I have a MTX

4-2-1 header ($200)
2.25" flex ($129)
2.25" exhaust ($200)
UDP ($129)
FR Stage II cams ($150)
Cam Gears ($350)
SD Coil + Wires (not really worth it, put stock back on) ($129)
FC Air Intake ($150)
EGR Delete ($10)
FS SCT Tuned Chip (mail order 93 oct) ($250)
AEM Sticker (haha, jk)
65MM Throttle Body ($200)

Total: $1897

sounds faster than stock, is faster than stock but probably only took probably 1 sec off 1/4 mile... ended up having ~140whp tops

.....

Look at MCNEW n/a buildup, he is running 14 sec with a extremely lightened car, and 13 sec with a decent shot of n2o, he has a worked FR head and probably putting down 160whp

.....

For all the money I spent, I'm ending up spending $2500 on a turbo including tuning and I'll be pushing 200-220 whp

go the boost! =)

saintg2005 · Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:13 pm

I am Greddy T3 and the whole nine yards. c the other post below or above. I'm just so friggin sick of puttin this money in and barely seeing anything out. EERRRGGGG!!!! I'm just gonna go turbo and that will be the end of it. You coming to the Feb 18 meet? Where is it and what time?