Idle prolems...

portfocus33 · Sat Oct 22, 2005 8:05 am

The problems started on Wed. this week when I was driving home from lunch my car started reving really high. I got home and shut it off, then turned it back on and the rpm's were up around 3000 for the idle. Now the rpm's go anywhere from 2000-4500 when my car is idling and driving it really sucks now. I went to AutoZone and they ran the check engine light deal and it said that my IAT sensor, and my vehicle idle control sensor were the problem. I pulled my battery and then tried again, that only made the check engine light disappear. The damn dealerships dont wont do service work on the weekends and so if anyone has any ideas i would greatly appreciate them. Thanks

sc0tty8 · Sat Oct 22, 2005 9:13 am

Sounds like an IAC issue. You could try to remove it and hit it with some brake cleaner, but, sometimes the internals melt and you just have to replace them.

Sublimetime86 · Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:22 am

my car has been idling strage lately too it will sit at about 700 rpms the rev up to 1300, and then drop to about 400 rpms, (to the point were it almost stalls, or stalls). any ideas?

sc0tty8 · Tue Oct 25, 2005 2:44 pm

Sublimetime86 wrote: my car has been idling strage lately too it will sit at about 700 rpms the rev up to 1300, and then drop to about 400 rpms, (to the point were it almost stalls, or stalls). any ideas?

Iac or you need a tune up. The iac on my old bird took a dump so when you started the car it would idle at 2k

Check for vacuum leaks also, they say to use brake cleaner around the fittings and if your car idles really high thats the leak, I tried it on my sc and I did nadda....

Sublimetime86 · Tue Nov 01, 2005 11:15 pm

i've installed a RA and spark plug wires recently, could this be the problem? also the idle has gotten so bad that if i'm stopped at a red light the car will stall 50% of the time.

sc0tty8 · Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:32 am

Check iac and vacuum leaks. Whats an "ra"? Plugs/wires should cause it, unless you replaced the OEM units with garbage units. Note, stock plugs and wires are more then enough for a focus.

Sublimetime86 · Wed Nov 02, 2005 8:19 am

RA= ram air. What is the iac, and were do i find it? I replaced the wires with the blue ford racing wires.

Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:21 am

Are you throwing any codes at all? Generally if your IAC is sticking or failing it's going to throw a code. If you have a code, autozone will pull it for free. If you have your old wires lying around throw those on to see how they sit but I doubt thats your problem if they were purchased new.

A vacuum leak is one of those things that will cause absurd idle issues and not throw a code. If you want to buy a T fitting and a coupler we can run a line to a boost gauge and check if you have a vacuum leak. It'd run you about $3 to test.

Sublimetime86 · Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:30 am

sounds good to me, it's just a matter of finding a time that would work for you.

what exactly does throwing a code mean?

i'm still learning, as you all can tell

Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:47 am

Sublimetime86 wrote: sounds good to me, it's just a matter of finding a time that would work for you.

what exactly does throwing a code mean? i'm still learning, as you all can tell

You'll have this light on your dash..

Generally I work Monday-Friday till 6:00PM This weekend I'm partially free, we're doing the MNSC photo day on Saturday but otherwise I dont have a ton planned. PM me a time and I'll let you know if I can make it.

Sublimetime86 · Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:58 am

ok, i don't have that light, and I'll pm ya with a time.

sc0tty8 · Wed Nov 02, 2005 11:19 am

Also check to make sure that your air intake from your maf back is snug and has no leaks. If there is an air leak this could be a cause of your problem.

alien · Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:16 pm

IAC, Plugg, or Plugg wires are the best place to start. Make sure the MAF connection is tight and make sure the connection to the coil pack is secure as well.

portfocus33 · Mon Nov 07, 2005 3:06 am

well with my car it was the idle control valve and it was stuck open so there was no regulation with the idle which was making it idle really really high and so it was a relatively cheap fix under 200 so if nothing else have them check that out but im not saying that will be the problem.

sc0tty8 · Mon Nov 07, 2005 10:45 am

portfocus33 wrote: well with my car it was the idle control valve and it was stuck open so there was no regulation with the idle which was making it idle really really high and so it was a relatively cheap fix under 200 so if nothing else have them check that out but im not saying that will be the problem.

The part can be had for less then 60$ and it takes 10 min to swap out....