cold starts?

cohenj87 · Sat Dec 20, 2008 9:52 pm

trruuuuuuuu

jrscteg · Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:26 pm

tgnorman wrote:
FORDSVTPARTS wrote:
cohenj87 wrote:it runs great when the car is warmed up or its a decent temp outside not like the past week. i was driving tonight, my dad got it running when i was at work and put it in the garage so i will be able to drive my car to work tomorrow. when i did start it up for the first like 3 minutes it idled really weird and kinda bouncey. it hasnt ever done it before either. ill buy a beater car to get through winter before i take my car to a dealership and get raped up the you know what and then recieve mail about getting warranty work and stuff like that done.
So somehow it'll be cheaper to buy another car than it would be to get this one running right?

Did you ever find out for sure about the plugs, Focinite also mentioned the Mass air flow sensor. Focinites posts may appear random and bizarre at times but he's a good mechanic so you may want to take his advice.

BTW-taking it in does not always mean to a dealership, I bet Focinite would look at it or if you could get up to the Northeast metro you could get it in to Lutz Automotive and have Vince check it out. He's a great guy and a great mechanic, Lutz auto 651-429-9206.
I'll second the recommendation for Vince, he's an awesome guy and does great work. Probably the best price in town, too.

I'll third the recommendation for lutz automotive very good mechanic, dealer quality with backyard pricing!!!

also i havent had a single problem with my svt in the cold weather...

cohenj87 · Sun Dec 21, 2008 10:27 pm

well im pretty sure its a fuel delivery problem. i got it to start this morning and it was -12 with a cold ass wind chill. i had to pump the shit out of the gas and then put it to the floor and crank that bitch over and over and it will slowly slowly start to fire and then i just need to keep that pedal in and the key turned until it finally will full fire up.

focinite · Sun Dec 21, 2008 11:12 pm

do me a favor, the next time it does this, at the first sign of not starting, turn off the car count to ten then turn key to on but not engine on, florr it , count to five with the pedal to the floor then crank with pedal to the floor and only lift if motor sparks to life. if this works then you have a flood condition, the method described is a flood clear built into the programing. i bet you have a burnt maf. or you can do this the next time it wount start, unplug the maf and i bet it fires to life by the 3 rotation.

Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:30 am

cohenj87 wrote:well im pretty sure its a fuel delivery problem. i got it to start this morning and it was -12 with a cold ass wind chill. i had to pump the shit out of the gas and then put it to the floor and crank that bitch over and over and it will slowly slowly start to fire and then i just need to keep that pedal in and the key turned until it finally will full fire up.

Pumping the gas in a fuel injected car doesn't do anything unless you're cranking the engine at the same time.

Also, holding the pedal to the floor whie cranking the engine actually shuts the fuel OFF which Focinite already hinted at is how you start a flooded engine.

If Focinite says MAF with the information given then I'd go with him on it, Call me today at work and I'll check pricing on it for you.

Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:39 pm

$123.00 for the SVT MAF from me and I do have it in stock.

cohenj87 · Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:55 pm

well it starts just fine with the way im doing it now and i found i dont need to pump it just hold it in. im not gonna put money into it when i can start it the way it is. thanks alot for all the help guys.

focinite · Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:12 pm

ok , i also do engine installs.

Patalrob · Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:39 pm

focinite wrote:ok , i also do engine installs.

Do you do towing also??

cohenj87 · Tue Dec 23, 2008 8:05 pm

hey like i said i dont know anything about cars so you dont need to be rude about it. it would be very helpful if you would tell me why it is so important i put this part in my car when it runs perfect when it is warm out or when the car gets warmed up in the winter? like i said i dont know about these things. i know how to change my oil and have never attempted anything else with my car or any car for that matter so make jokes like i d o engine installs and tows isnt gonna help me out at all except maybe prevent me from coming back on here when i need help because me like anyone doesnt enjoy getting made fun of. i really appreciate all the help you guys have given and the time you have spent reading and responding to my post. i know i shouldve asked why i would need to buy a new 123$ part when my car works great except when its negative degrees.

Tue Dec 23, 2008 9:45 pm

cohenj87 wrote:hey like i said i dont know anything about cars so you dont need to be rude about it. it would be very helpful if you would tell me why it is so important i put this part in my car when it runs perfect when it is warm out or when the car gets warmed up in the winter? like i said i dont know about these things. i know how to change my oil and have never attempted anything else with my car or any car for that matter so make jokes like i d o engine installs and tows isnt gonna help me out at all except maybe prevent me from coming back on here when i need help because me like anyone doesnt enjoy getting made fun of. i really appreciate all the help you guys have given and the time you have spent reading and responding to my post. i know i shouldve asked why i would need to buy a new 123$ part when my car works great except when its negative degrees.

Because the Mass air sensor appears to have failed, that is a very important part when it comes to air fuel mixture ratios.

Right now it seems to be causing a rich (excess fuel) mixture which is flooding the engine on cold starts, it could start causing a lean (lack of fuel) condition which leads to burning up your pistons.

Modern engines are very sensitive to sensor failures, they all have a function be it a major or minor function.

Besides the fact that just because it's starting now does not in any way mean it will continue to do so.

You asked for advice and you're getting it from some very knowledgeable sources, I've got 15 years in Ford parts departments and I handle all the internet sales for Tousley Ford for OEM and Ford Racing parts and Focinite is a trained Ford tech.

Please keep in mind that most of the guys here know each other pretty well and we do tend to tease each other, it just takes a while to know when people are joking around.

In Focinites post about the engine replacement he wasn't really joking, you're taking your chances running it that way.

focinite · Wed Dec 24, 2008 1:26 am

whoa feller!!!!!!!!!!! lets just calm down for a second........
ok like steve said the maf controls the fuel mix by reading incoming air temp,speed,density and barrometric pressure. now if this little do-hickey reads wrong it will cause all sorts of fun interesting things to happen. now in your case i feel that the maf is reading that you like 900,000,000,000 ft below sea level and dumping a butt load of fuel in at first. now this is bad becuase it will wash the pistons,foul plugs, murder the 900 dollar cat,smoke the o2 sensors, contaminate the oil...the list goes on. the best thing to do is get the car looked at, so when you do get the car or it breakes down, it wount cost as much to fix it. on a car you have systems..fuel, cooling,electical..they are made up of many parts, now if a part fails then you can fix that part as long as its caught soon, but left to its own devices it will take the whole system with it..ie, my maf is failing if i fixit now....75 bucks, or my maf is failing , oh fuck it it runs fine, 3 month go by, now my check engine light is blinking and my car is misfiring and it smells funny and my ac dont work( on a ford this goes bye-bye with misfires) see now the bill is like a minimum of 110 bucks for diag, 80 bucks for a maf, 900 bucks for a cat,200 bucks for both o2s, 80 bucks for plug wires,38 bucks for plugs....see this is what we are trying to help with, id rather pay 75- 80 bucks for a maf than 1800 just to get it running again.

cohenj87 · Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:49 am

ok how can i tell forsure of its the maf? he said they were 123 dollars not 75? all i have to pay for is parts my cousins will install anything for free. even if its a 15 hour job it will be free of charge im not saying its an excuse to just keep driving my car but its the big reason i wont take it to someone and pay to have it fixed. so how can i be sure it this mas?

Patalrob · Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:40 am

The MAS is easier to change then doing an Oil change all you do is unhook the wire connector and take out a couple screws and its out. Its in the intake tube so its very simple to get to.

cohenj87 · Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:09 pm

focinite wrote:do me a favor, the next time it does this, at the first sign of not starting, turn off the car count to ten then turn key to on but not engine on, florr it , count to five with the pedal to the floor then crank with pedal to the floor and only lift if motor sparks to life. if this works then you have a flood condition, the method described is a flood clear built into the programing. i bet you have a burnt maf. or you can do this the next time it wount start, unplug the maf and i bet it fires to life by the 3 rotation.

i didnt see these post until a little bit ago and i tried it today i guesse i left the key on when i counted to 10 but it fired right up when i held it to the floor and turned it over. so this means my maf is fried?