turbos=

Non Focus discussion. Pretty much other cars and off topic stuff.
IMINHELL

So I take it your not ditching the turbo idea (like you probally should, for now atleast)?

BTW rotella is almost bottom of the barrel as far as thick oil goes for diesels. Delvac or even Amsoil are leaps and bounds ahead. Also take note that the higher viscosity oils flow slower. That can translate to a higher viscosity oil absorbing more heat (time spent in friction areas) and transfer more heat through say an oil cooler. The problem lies in when the oil reaches a higher temp it takes longer for it to cool down (greater mass per volume).


5-30 to 10-40 is where I think you should keep you oils range with-in.


John
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sc0tty8
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I will prob dump the turbo for now.

I was looking at the rotella oils at wally world, I don't want any water-like synthetic, like mobile, even the 10w30 is watery and gives me dry start probs when my cars sit awhile, if I go syn, I will prob go with the rotella 10w40/15w50, if they got 5/10w30/40 in non-syn, I'll hit it. Not paying the 22$ for a jug of mobile1 to have dry starts and I have been reading too many problems with the quality of mobile1. The thing with amsoil, other then the cost, is trying to get it, all I know around here of people that have it is hutch napa, and that guy that works with you(ryan) is a dealer, but, the thing with walmart is they will be there all the time and even at 3am, I can get my oil :lol: I buy wix filters 2 at a time :wink:
IMINHELL

We have some amsoil left at the store. I have a 5 qt. jug in my car right now. If you don't like "dry starts" just pull a coil wire and crank it for a little bit, put the wire back on and drive off. OR use the Valvoline SynTec oil additive. That additive has a calcium based mineral called Molybendium (IIRC, don't quote me yet). The properties of it allow it to "stick" and "fill" the microscopic pores in the lead bearings effictivly creating a super-smooth bearing surface and a VERY thin boundry layer. On the BITOG site you should have found a "New Oil Analysis" chart. Look over that chart and scroll down and tell me what oils have the most quantity of Moly per volume in them. You'll find that Mobil 1 uses more than most - that is why it is considered a better waring oil compaired to others (of comparitive cost or below).

And actually you will have worse "dry starts" with a thicker oil because when cold it will take the oil pump longer to move the required volume of oil to the bearings (and possiably undue stress on the pump itself). Thicker oil does not "stick" to bearing surfaces any better than thinner oil.


John
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sc0tty8
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Rotella does have additives in it to protect bearings and other wear surfaces. I'll have to see if I got that site book marked. Whats that amsoil go for?
focinite
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sc0tty8 wrote: Rotella does have additives in it to protect bearings and other wear surfaces. I'll have to see if I got that site book marked. Whats that amsoil go for?
i pulled the old foci motor apart and ive run royal purp 5w30 since 15,000 and all looks purrty, remember i am no where near nice to cars. that motor has not been fired or turned over for a month and there was still oil on the cam.
Image wink wink.....bitches
IMINHELL

Scott we don't have 15-40 at the store any longer, I bought the last 2 jugs tonight ($16.25 each my cost :P )

Still have a ton of 10-30 qts, $4.25 each my cost.


John
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sc0tty8
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And thats the amsoil stuff, John?
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sc0tty8
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Location: Litchfield MN

Awesome.
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