zurno wrote: the upgrade kit is over 2 grand
Link?
2 grand wtf?
turbo
2k, thats fucking insane.
If I understand your setup, the turbo goes where the factory flex would be, and the turbo is behind the motor?
I'd take that off, and take it to a local speed shop, there has to be tons in the cities that can do it for less I would imagine...it can't be that hard to fit a new flange or whatever to it and run your coolant or oil lines.
If I understand your setup, the turbo goes where the factory flex would be, and the turbo is behind the motor?
I'd take that off, and take it to a local speed shop, there has to be tons in the cities that can do it for less I would imagine...it can't be that hard to fit a new flange or whatever to it and run your coolant or oil lines.
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zurno
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unbolted, maybe a busted off head of bolt
I think the car had a little exhaust leak since I got the thing
I think it may have been not hitting full boost the day before it wouldnt spool at all
now I just need to get it bolted back together, also I think my header has always been hitting on something, so maybe this will take care of it for awhiel too
I think the car had a little exhaust leak since I got the thing
I think it may have been not hitting full boost the day before it wouldnt spool at all
now I just need to get it bolted back together, also I think my header has always been hitting on something, so maybe this will take care of it for awhiel too
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zurno
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when I changed the oil it had a pretty fresh looking bump on the header, but it was still attached then. it must of loosened up a bit more hwne I put on some miles
I need to refill the oil supply, but changing it probably wouldnt do much for it since it is fed with a wick system
I need to refill the oil supply, but changing it probably wouldnt do much for it since it is fed with a wick system
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IMINHELL
sc0tty8 wrote: Your local parts store should have metric bolts if you don't want it to seperate again
Or maybe do it "right" and use studs. Make the threads of the stud take the load of the header not the threads in the head. Just a thought.
If your looking for a somewhat local shop that can rebuild/repair your turbo check out http://www.midwestturbo.com.
Even with an exhaust leak you should have made some boost. Off hand I'd say your problem is not solved yet. I'd look more towards the WG being stuck open (I assume there is one?).
Do you have an A/F gauge?
Was it reading lean?
Where you getting "backfiring"?
I'll have to find a picture of your oiling system, I don't get it. But if I understand it right, your bearing/s could be "floating" in oil that is well upwards of 250+++. That will kill the oil and bearings pretty quickly.
John
*edit*
Ok your running a GT-28R (as far as I know from the web site listed). I did not see anything that resembled an "oil resivour", so that still confuses me. For those bearing to work properly there has to be oil pressure. On average 20 - 40 psi should be pressant after the oil restrictor.
"Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go uphill at any point." -- From: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ch101.html
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zurno
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the turbo kit has like an aerodyne 53000 or something like that
the header is separated where it joins to the (turbo manifold?) where the stock flex pipe resides, so I basicaaly have an open full length 4-1 header with a restricted intake right now, sounds like shit
the header is separated where it joins to the (turbo manifold?) where the stock flex pipe resides, so I basicaaly have an open full length 4-1 header with a restricted intake right now, sounds like shit
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IMINHELL
Ok I see it now, it's listed in the turbo history on the site.
"Many boost-addicted customers, while attempting to extract a few more horsepower out of the turbo, met with the unfortunate sound of turbo failure when they upped the boost beyond the Aerodynes limits."
Ok now I see where I was confused. There really is no bearing between the hot and cold. It is actually before the cold side. I guess that would help disapate some heat, maybe. Still an odd design.
I cannot find pictures of the exhaust flanges. Can you post some? Maybe I can (or have) find something that may bolt on. I have 2 TD05-12A's and 1 IHI from a TurboCoupe, all need to be rebuilt but I am willing to sell them cheap.
"Many boost-addicted customers, while attempting to extract a few more horsepower out of the turbo, met with the unfortunate sound of turbo failure when they upped the boost beyond the Aerodynes limits."
Ok now I see where I was confused. There really is no bearing between the hot and cold. It is actually before the cold side. I guess that would help disapate some heat, maybe. Still an odd design.
I cannot find pictures of the exhaust flanges. Can you post some? Maybe I can (or have) find something that may bolt on. I have 2 TD05-12A's and 1 IHI from a TurboCoupe, all need to be rebuilt but I am willing to sell them cheap.