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torque numbers for zetec head
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:42 pm
by FOCI
I have a haynes manual on order but it won't be here till monday if somebody could tell me the torue numbers it would give me something to do this weekend. Or if somebody going to the gtg tomorrow would lend me their manual that would be great too.
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:14 am
by HotRodWagon
I should have gotten a Haynes, my Chilton doesn't even list the spec.

Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:00 am
by trahma
HotRodWagon wrote:
I should have gotten a Haynes, my Chilton doesn't even list the spec.
They're the same manual. The chilton's guide lists them at the beginning or end of the chapter, I know because I used the specs when I installed my head.
I'd check but I'm at work right now and LouisZerr has my Chiltons.
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:43 pm
by HotRodWagon
Thanks trahma....if I only looked further than my nose...
Cylinder head bolts (in sequence...see pic)
Stage 1 = 132in-lbs
Stage 2 = 30
Stage 3 = Angle tighten another 90 degrees(see second pic)
Basically, go through the sequence first at 132 then do it a second time at an additional 30.
The third stage:"Stage 3 involves tightening the bolts through an angle, rather than to a torque. Each bolt in sequence must be rotated through the specified angle-special angle guages are available from tool outlets, but a 90 degree angle is equivalent to a quarter turn, and this is easily judged by assessing the start and end positions of the socket handle or torque wrench."

Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 3:18 pm
by Louis Zerr
Remember do not re-use the stock bolts that came off the head. Because doing the 90 degree angle gauge thing actually tweaks the threads. You can either get new bolts or go with ARP studs which is what I did. If you have ARP studs use their 2 stage torque specs.
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:09 am
by FOCI
thanks so much I have the arp bolts. Now I can start puting my car back together
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:38 am
by umdivx
also remember is INCH LBS and not FT LBS.
- Josh