Minnesota Focus Owners Club

non-issue.

Been fighting with it for years now. No longer.
Internet lies.
I had to pull fuel, add IAC and add spark. Cranked right over this morning with no issues. Sooo nice.

You got lucky and you know it. E 85 wont vaperise proporly in 20 degress er so. Same reason diesle needs fuel heaters. All of fords flex fuel cars have a way to warm up the fuel. Sorry the greasels fuel turns to gel when it gets cold. We got a guy that guns the corn juice down his carb holes on his summer rigs but is getting away from it due to cost. And why are you runnin shine in yer focus? You aint boosted or running stupid high compression.

~12:1 isn't high. But it's enough that pump requires me to back off timing quite a bit.

iminhell wrote:~12:1 isn't high. But it's enough that pump requires me to back off timing quite a bit.

Neat, i did not know that. I still dont think id run ethenol in the winter. With all the condinsation of warm and cold and hot and cool and warm and cold its gotta suck up a bunch of moisture. But if you gotnit to work then congrats. Im still peeved that i missed selling my car to you. Now your runnin the svt head? And intake right. If so how did you get rid of the cam shits, the, the, um the shits you know the um.....fuck! The cam shits that advance or retard the intake cam.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/show ... p?t=303290


I've got more done than most realize

My car has been on e85 exclusively for over 4 years. I've never had a problem starting the car in the winter, though it bogs big time until it is warmed up.

My other car starts like stock. But it's only got intake and exhaust, plus there's 180,000 less miles on the engine. It's just the swapped car that's always been a problem child. I got worse once the FRIM went on. Now that I've got most sorted out I'm understanding more.

Whats this frim? If the goal is two hundred whp then why not modify the zx3s z tech head. You have more options for cams. Deckin the head and better pistons would rqise the comp to a good 12,13.1. But thn youll hav to spin it to like 11,000 rpm so youll need good rods. Get a svt block qnd put the z teck head on it. Done anb done!

My understanding is that the stock SVT head actually flowed better than the old FRPP CNC ported Zetec head.

It's hard to beat a head designed by Cosworth, besides look whos talking about swapping SVT parts to Zetec cars.




.

so naive ...

I've got a fair amount of parts to do a few builds, 3 SVT heads and 2 zetec heads (besides what's on the cars). And 2 or 3 blocks etc.
I'm just seeing what stock can take before it grenades.
I can tell ya the pump's about at it's lmit though with this cold weather.

So if a guy ...err i mean my friend wanted to get rid of the cam phazer shits and go with a more agrssive cam for his svt is there a way. Or are we lookin at the crem dala crem for a N/A set up. I am close very close to over 200 engine( estimated and some guess work and monkeying around dyno pulls) i to would like to see that at the tires. But i dont want to drop th money for a boosted shits, id rather put that twords the boy or the house but if there are some things i can do on the cheap im all ears. You say the fuel pump is almost maxed. Whats the fuel setup? I know you need alot more volume with shine but i thought the focus pump was a pretty healthy unit. Time to run a cobra set up. I dont know, for me, swaping over to the svt was like a double edged sword. On one side it made my shiz a lot more fun and on the other side they aint a whole lot a engine shits i can do.

From what I've learned there are 2 cam options, or maybe 3, for the SVT.
You've got the well known and expensive (also proven) Cat Cams through CFM.
You've got regrinds from Web Cams out in Calif. You'll have to call them direct and inquire more. Make sure you specify it's a ST170, that's how their grinds are listed. You won't find them online or in any catalog. I'm on mild regrinds. I didn't notice any gains.
Then there's the option of having Berry Cams regrind them. I've tried to inquire a couple times with no reply. I have to bring parts over there at some point (once I get pistons/rods) and I'll ask in person. I kinda know what I want done and I built a lobe in Excel that I think should work. I do need a pro opinion though, something like 'jerk' might be way wrong and they'd be able to spot and correct it.


Far as anything else, pistons/rods and compression are your best friend. You can have bigger valves made be Ferra, they have a listing for them. But IMO, cost prohibitive.
Porting and such, I'd have to toss a stock head on the car to see if my head makes any difference. But by all accounts it seems to. I think I went too big and there are a couple things I'd do different (am doing different being I've slowly been porting another head).

Thing is cams are the big hangup. If the ones I want/need weren't $1,300 I'd have some already. I'm not going to pay that for cams. I can find someone to do regrinds a few times for that price. But then it's the question of 'what's the limit of the stock springs?'


Staying N/A is a slippery slope. It's not cost effective $/hp. But I don't like boost in a FWD really. I like traction and see no real point to go hog wild like some of the 500hp guys. Parts for a build like that break and it gets expensive real quick. I break and I just swap good parts to a usable assembly. If I'm down a little power no big deal I'm still up and running for much less.


Also, Tom has VCT delete kits on hand right now. But I see Massive made some also, but they are Aluminum nearest I can tell and I'm not confident that's the correct metal choice. Heat and growth are very important as well as the surface finish where the cam seal runs.


I've got a couple idea's for add-on VCT for both cams that I'm kicking around. I'd have to pay my local R&D/CNC guy to make them and I'm not sure what it'd cost. Being I'm a poor/cheap ass I'm in no hurry to investigate that road,,, few others I have to travel first (like swapping to a V8 ecu, which is this Winter/Spring's project).

I can tell you hundreds of things that don't work. What does I'm still not 100% on. We know the basics, more air, better spark and more compression. Apart from that it's all method of delivery.



Fuel pump,
I bounced a couple ideas off Tom and he got me sorted out. I was maxing the pump @ ~9v. That's the highest consistent voltage I'd see from the FPDM. I asked him how much voltage I could command to the pump. 16v he claims. So I upped my voltage table and I seem to have plenty of fuel now, way way way too much infact. Question now is how long the pump will last,,, I'm on the update pump which I replaced back in 04/05, must have near 80K on it and 40K on E-85. So I'm not expecting much more out of it.
So ya, if you get the tune for the pump right, it's got plenty of room on any fuel.

My fuel pump is from o3. It has 148k on it. The fuel pump in our cars is a beast. Its capable of 100psi it can go all day long at 60psi at some large flow rates. In my returnless setup the pump aint workin thwt hard to move fuel. Its the return style that fry pumps. As for the cams i feel ya twelve hundered is to steep. I want the power of boost but i dont like my options versus cost. You say you got a c&c guy?. I should show you some ideas for solid and semi solid engine and trans mounts. I use hockey pucks for now but i can tear through one in like four years but i want more solid. Back to the fuel pump, 9v is the max !? Oh i keep forgetting it has the seperate driver. Yeah its fun to mess with them but it sucks when no one makes parts or the parts arnt as good as the stockers. Is there a benifit to going to COP style ignition or was that just a cool factor. Sorry for it being so random but ma kid is sick so its a lot of going and comin back stuffs.

My fuel pump is from o3. It has 148k on it. The fuel pump in our cars is a beast. Its capable of 100psi it can go all day long at 60psi at some large flow rates. In my returnless setup the pump aint workin thwt hard to move fuel. Its the return style that fry pumps. As for the cams i feel ya twelve hundered is to steep. I want the power of boost but i dont like my options versus cost. You say you got a c&c guy?. I should show you some ideas for solid and semi solid engine and trans mounts. I use hockey pucks for now but i can tear through one in like four years but i want more solid. Back to the fuel pump, 9v is the max !? Oh i keep forgetting it has the seperate driver. Yeah its fun to mess with them but it sucks when no one makes parts or the parts arnt as good as the stockers. Is there a benifit to going to COP style ignition or was that just a cool factor. Sorry for it being so random but ma kid is sick so its a lot of going and comin back stuffs.

I did the COP for looks, initially. There's no power gain.

BUT, when I switch to the V8 ECU they'll be needed. What's going to happen is I'll get rid of the 'Wasted Spark' ignition and it'll end up being true sequential ignition and fuel.
I've had this idea that wasted spark wastes fuel and is holding us back N/A. The swap is being done to either prove or disprove my theory. It should be a pretty easy swap, just have to move a couple pins and remove a couple. Then it's all tuning stuffs, "PIP counts". I'm got most of the ECU stuff figured out I think and I have a guy online I can bounce ideas off if something goes wrong. Shouldn't be difficult though.


I don't think I'd ever go full solid mount. Might cause some weird resonance and drive the KS crazy. The VF style mounts work very well, I've run them since 03. Window Weld, hockey pucks or any other higher durometer rubber will help. Anything more is just going to cause NVH harshness.