Minnesota Focus Owners Club

I told the wife enough is enough, Gilligan is gonna get boosted, again. This time I have the correct turbo and wastegate to make it right. And no LJ to blow it up for me. I'm only looking to hit about 200 whp as my soon to be driving son will also be driving it.

There are only a few parts I need as I have pretty much the entire set up ready to bolt on. Top question though, oil return. Should I make the cut into the skirt or eff with the pan again? And for the record I didn't like the pan set up last time.

I don't see why you couldn't put the drain in the skirt, even if you pull it off the car later you can just put a plug in it and block it off.

Get it done!!


-Steve

Okkay then that is the way to go, next question is how is the best way to achieve that little hole. Ugh, it seems like my whole life I've worried about little holes!!!

I suggest with one of these



Or one of these

I guess I should clarify, does anyone have a rotobroach bit that would work. I would want to install it based on the Vortech kit install instructions.These are the instructions and I don't want it to turn into a trahmatic experience. Anyone done this/has the tools to do it?

(from the Vortech install instructions)
F. Use the supplied 9/16" rotobroach to drill the
hole. Take care to break through the pan and
gently remove the cut out.
G. Pack the flutes of a 3/8" NPT tap with grease.
Tap the hole until the fitting can be started.

If you want a pan setup for a drain let me know. You can have it.


Actually I would do a drain below the windage tray. My line of thinking is that wind should be lower and there less chance of oil not draining well. If the block would pressurize for some reason it would also create more of a slope for oil to travel back up, lowering the change of burning oil.

Big thing though is just making sure the drain line is big and that it does have a good downward slope to the pan ... which you already know.


And actually, I'd just pull the windage tray and bring it to a shop and have them TIG a piece of AL tube on. I wouldn't dick with threading or fittings. 1 hole and 1 little weld, done. Tray's shot anyways once you drill it, so may as well make something that lasts and won't leak.

iminhell, i may have to take you up on that pan. At least as an alternative. I may just drop my pan, center punch and step drill it then thread it like the Roush Turbo install suggests.

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/manuals ... 034-AA.pdf

Not sure though. The pan is easily replaced, gnome sayin'.

The problem is that when you tap the pan, the turbo oil line doesn't drain fast enough because the pan is filled to the top with oil. I just used a stepped drill bit for the skirt.

Roman, I may need some ideas on intake pipe routing. I have been looking all over for idears, but until I get far enough to do that portion I am just gathering ideas. I don't want to have to move my battery.

The suckiest part is that I have started the process to get my knee scoped. My doc thinks i might have a torn meniscus in my knee. So off to the orthopedic surgeon I go. The main issue is that my knee hurts. So this is going to be a lovely time. Bolts have been PB Blasted and should be bagged up tonight. Going to drop the subframe and get the clutch install over with. Then on to the Turbonization.

My car will no longer be the slowest, but at least mid pack. Maybe a little under since I am driving.

Go with the pan. You dont have to worrie about shavings. Makes things easy to service. Its lower. I dont like drilling into cast aluminum,...hay i found a air pocket and now i need a new block. I am parinoid too so that last one is just me.

Whoops late to the party.

Well, I am doing it, still gathering parts, but i have to put it off for a month or so. This little clutch swap is turning into a brakes/calipers/paint rusty shtuff PITA. I want to make sure I have good brakes, so this is a must and is setting me back more than I expected. $300 turns to $600 quickly.

Louis Zerr wrote:Well, I am doing it, still gathering parts, but i have to put it off for a month or so. This little clutch swap is turning into a brakes/calipers/paint rusty shtuff PITA. I want to make sure I have good brakes, so this is a must and is setting me back more than I expected. $300 turns to $600 quickly.

I hear ya there....

I thought someone told me before that you can remove the skirt that your drill into. Maybe Steve can verify?

Otherwise when we drilled my pan we just used a regular drill bit, I was pretty much completely unable to find a rotobroach bit so we just dropped the pan and drilled.

Justin, that is what I will end up doing. In the midst of getting the car cleaned up right now. Lots of painting to do before she goes back together, and every time I remove something I find another issue. She's almost 11 years old so, what can you do. I want to keep her running.

Louis Zerr wrote:Justin, that is what I will end up doing. In the midst of getting the car cleaned up right now. Lots of painting to do before she goes back together, and every time I remove something I find another issue. She's almost 11 years old so, what can you do. I want to keep her running.

Speaking of the cars getting older, I'm tempted to just put mine into storage until I can put collector plates on it.