Minnesota Focus Owners Club

I've got the two vf mounts I didn't have, arp cam gear bolts, arp head studs, a kent competition cam belt, and a trubendz 2 1/2 flex on the way. Hopefully I'll have my car runing befor snow. Clutch and quaife should be ordered in the next two weeks. My turbo cams and adjustable gears got here today from mcnews they'll be going on the FC stage 3 head this weekend hopefully, and all the wiring for the nitrous will be here by next friday.

Not that it really matters but I thought I'd share

So you have a the pistons and rods to build the block right?

Naaawwwwssss and a turbo??? GL with that.

- Josh

what compression ratio are you planning in running? What does the FC stage 3 head do to your compression?

the head isn't shaved so comp is still the same. I forgot about rods and pistons on the list they are also on the way eagle rods and je pistons

Who's gonna assemble th bottom end for you? Or are you gonna tackle that too?

I have no idea I don't know anything about bottom ends so Iwon't even try. I might even get someone to put the cams in for me. Got any ideas on a good place to get everything but the turbo put on? Hytech said it costs $125 an hour that sounds a little high any place cheaper

FOCI wrote: I have no idea I don't know anything about bottom ends so Iwon't even try. I might even get someone to put the cams in for me. Got any ideas on a good place to get everything but the turbo put on? Hytech said it costs $125 an hour that sounds a little high any place cheaper

$125/hr for what kind of work? Engine or Turbo or both?

Talk to Boost Factory in Bloomington or if you want your engine done right talk to B & A cylndar head in Ramsey near Hitech, they did Rod's engine, a little expensive but they will do it the right way.

- Josh

umdivx wrote: $125/hr for what kind of work?

Hopefully good quality head work yeah yeah

lol...

Even with standard sized pistons, you prob won't be able to fit them into the bore, if you where to do it yourself, they usually still require a slight hone(for a proper fit) The rings will also prob need to be filed to fit and I doubt you have a ring filer(it is a special machine)

You need to find a machine shop. A good machine shop should be able to:

Hone/bore with a torque plate
balance rotating mass within 1 gram, and, prob balance it to 10k rpm.
set up cams
put together your shortblock, possibly whole motor and setup your cams
de-bur your block and remove excess manufacturing/mold marks(weight reduction)
blueprint
resurface any area that may be damaged(bearing caps)
acid dip/paint block
Check for cracks(what ths technical term I am looking for?)


The rest of it, I would find someone that knows thier shit, a dealership will charge 60-70$ an hour, for shop time, an option would be to have them just assemble/install the COMPLETED shortblock, turbo, everything and then tow it to the tuning place and have them take care of the tune/finishing touches. Also, full tank of premium+++

Either way, find a good shop. Ask to see thier work, ask about warranty, and, with the money your investing, make sure you got a reciept with a warranty against workmanship. Save these for 'just in case shit...'

Get a thicker head gasket or lower compression pistons, with the turbo+nos, your going to need to drop that compression and get a good tune. If you get a asstastic tune, your motor will NOT live long and all your money goes down the drain as your motor dystroys itself.

With the money you are throwing around perhaps you should have bought a pre-assembled shortblock, or, a wrc block. With FI and juice your going to want for sure more meat in the block(one that can take the beating).

Also, how about valve springs? Your running boost, and, your replacing your rotating assembly, and, will prob get it balanced and tuned to run much higher rpm's, at higher rpms, springs loose pressure and start to "float". Make sure your valve train can take it.

Play it safe, go with small boost and small tune to start with before you go crazy. I can see it, you go from 140hp to the wheels to nearly 2-3x that, the car is going to be a whole new car.

Remember, more go NEEDS more woah.

I personally would have gone with a PowerWorks kit, granted, you do not get as much power as you do turbo but, the reliability+change over stock make it an overall safer choice. It is more street friendly.

Magnaflux-checks for cracks....

Just watched the tuner challenge on Car and Drive and saw the powerworks focus had a DNF since they could not reach 130mph=weak sauce.

I have to say that B&A Cylinder head did an excellent job on my engine and i would recommend them. They are not cheap my engine work (which included everything internal and balancing including flywheel balancing, except blueprinting which is really not necessary) was about $1500 and then i had a valve job done, total i think i dropped about $2K there. Very well worth it though. The car idles nice and smooth (shut up Justin) and the revs come up really nice. And did i mention it held at well over 20 psi on the dyno?

Louis Zerr wrote: Just watched the tuner challenge on Car and Drive and saw the powerworks focus had a DNF since they could not reach 130mph=weak sauce.

Yeah I seen that focus in its skidding fury I think that elise, not the honda one, could have been the one to take first with a good driver. They are very well known as being a very precise and nimble car, and, it was supercharged. NA it is like 160 or 180 hp I think and they are very light weight.

sc0tty8 wrote:

Louis Zerr wrote:
Just watched the tuner challenge on Car and Drive and saw the powerworks focus had a DNF since they could not reach 130mph=weak sauce.

Yeah I seen that focus in its skidding fury I think that elise, not the honda one, could have been the one to take first with a good driver. They are very well known as being a very precise and nimble car, and, it was supercharged. NA it is like 160 or 180 hp I think and they are very light weight.

Well just to let you know that a stock Elise has the smaller 1.8l honda engine in it. What they did was just put the bigger 2.0l engine and tranny into it, then added all the basic bolt ons, and then super charged it. Way better than the stock one.

They should have done a big brake upgrade kit as that is what was holding it back.

other than that it was a bad ass car.

- Josh

umdivx wrote:

sc0tty8 wrote:

Louis Zerr wrote:
Just watched the tuner challenge on Car and Drive and saw the powerworks focus had a DNF since they could not reach 130mph=weak sauce.

Yeah I seen that focus in its skidding fury I think that elise, not the honda one, could have been the one to take first with a good driver. They are very well known as being a very precise and nimble car, and, it was supercharged. NA it is like 160 or 180 hp I think and they are very light weight.

Well just to let you know that a stock Elise has the smaller 1.8l honda engine in it. What they did was just put the bigger 2.0l engine and tranny into it, then added all the basic bolt ons, and then super charged it. Way better than the stock one.

They should have done a big brake upgrade kit as that is what was holding it back.

other than that it was a bad ass car.

- Josh

No, it has that varible valve timing motor from the toyota, just better tuning. It is the same one I belive from the scion but they added liek a diff intake mani, cams, tuning.

http://motortrend.com/roadtests/coupe/1 ... rst_lotus/

Read I read it in car week or whatever mag it is I got, it was in there last summer.

That one that was on the show, I am sure it was more then just simple bolt ons and a blower. They where saying some of the cars had about 40k in the drivetrain, not the average publics price tag for simple bolt on's