When Your Nuts Are In A Bind

[oldoutboardjim]

Any ideas for removing the nuts from the studs on the exhaust flange (at the exit of the flex pipe) – besides penetrating oil? I tried this trick once (and it worked) for an 02 sensor on an Integra: Apply paraffin wax to the HOT threaded connection, allow to cool until it is stone cold, and then remove the fastener. Apparently the wax will penetrate into the threads and lubricate them.
What have you tried that worked?

[tgnorman]

Impact wrench.

[Louis Zerr]

Yup, just took my flex pipe off yesterday. I had to use a nut splitter to get one off. I had it in 3 pieces and I still had to hit it with an air hammer. The other 3 came off easily with the impact wrench though.

I have a new flex section on order and will have John's Custom Fabrication in Bloomington weld it on. I had them weld an extension onto my new resonator mid pipe and they did a great job, and quickly. Too bad my car won't be ready that fast.

[SMOKEDFSVT]

i heated mine up with a torch, then sprayed them with penatrating oil. worked great. have to get the nut red hot tho.

[screaming4snow]

yes a torch works wonders on those

[Steve@Tasca]

IR-231 impact gun, works pretty much every time assuming you can get a decent angle on the bolt/nut.

Last time I had my cat out I had to cut off two of the bolts at the front but the flex pipe came out no problem.

[Pappy]

Sawzall.....

[focinite]

snap off all problematic studs then heat flange anwith a air hammer drive studs out of flange then replace with grade 8 hard ware. use a shit ton of copper anti sleez on threads.

[Steve@Tasca]

snap off all problematic studs then heat flange anwith a air hammer drive studs out of flange then replace with grade 8 hard ware. use a shit ton of copper anti sleez on threads.

They wouldn't break off on mine, if they had been in better shape and there was any way to get an impact on them I'd have done that.

I am now talking about the ones at the header to cat flange, those things suck to get at.

[tgnorman]

snap off all problematic studs then heat flange anwith a air hammer drive studs out of flange then replace with grade 8 hard ware. use a shit ton of copper anti sleez on threads.

They wouldn't break off on mine, if they had been in better shape and there was any way to get an impact on them I'd have done that.

I am now talking about the ones at the header to cat flange, those things suck to get at.

If I recall, I needed to cut one stud on the header flange, the rest you can squeeze an impact on....as for the rear ones, just need an 18"+ long extension and come up from behind the front subframe.

[Macky21]

.

[Macky21]

If I recall, I needed to cut one stud on the header flange, the rest you can squeeze an impact on....as for the rear ones, just need an 18"+ long extension and come up from behind the front subframe.

Sometimes you need to give those nuts the ol' reach around

[focinite]

ha reach round ha, like yer style kid , keep that ish up and you get the soap again .........ha.yeah up at the cat use adeep impact swivl on a stenshun

[Steve@Tasca]

ha reach round ha, like yer style kid , keep that ish up and you get the soap again .........ha.yeah up at the cat use adeep impact swivl on a stenshun

I don't make the big bucks like you do, I can't afford swivel impacts.

[oldoutboardjim]

ha reach round ha, like yer style kid , keep that ish up and you get the soap again .........ha.yeah up at the cat use adeep impact swivl on a stenshun

Say what?