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OrbitusXpandeR
Posts: 70
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 2:01 pm

So. What's the easiest way to replace the timing belt idler pulley? lol, but seriously. I can't tell whether the bolt backed all the way out or if the it just snapped off, but it's all sorts of messed up now. I'm not anywhere near my dads garage, which is where all my tools are, I'm at the bottom of a gravel hill that my mother-in-law calls her driveway. So I'm looking for the easiest way that one of you has found to replace that pulley, possibly/hopefully without putting the car on stands. thanks for any ideas.

Greg
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closetfordfan
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Car: 1996 ram
Location: lindstrom

tow dolly it to your dad's garage, that's the easiest solution I can think of. :shrug:
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Steve@Tasca
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Where is it?

I think towing it to your tools might be best, that or drag the tools to the car. Can you get the timing reset or do you need help with it?
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iminhell
Posts: 683
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Car: '00 & '01 ZX3's
Location: Darwin, MN

Only way I know to replace it is removing the motor plate. Not fun. Basically the whole side of the engine has to come off, water pump pulley (put some loctite on the bolts when you put them back in), motor mount. Then you can see the 4/5 bolts holding the plate on. One is an oddball, it's a Torx, the one hiding behind the water pump, T-55 IIRC.

I don't know of any other way. The plate is in the way for the bolt to back out all the way.
--John
OrbitusXpandeR
Posts: 70
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 2:01 pm

Yeah, that's what I figured. I was just hoping someone had figured out a shadetree technique to finagle it out and get a new one in. Next question, as a towing service will cost me easily $150-200, does anyone out there have a tow dolley they could help me out with? I could pay, we'll say $40?

And I think I'm good with the timing. Just gotta set the gears back to zero, throw the cam lock tool on to put the belt on at tdc and dial the cams back out (you can correct me if I'm missing something), but thanks for the offer, steve. And I've already got the new idler on will-call.

Thanks for any help!

Greg
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iminhell
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Car: '00 & '01 ZX3's
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Not sure how far you have to go, but I'd try to use a tow strap and your dad's truck. Not sure how it'll work with that bumper though. Maybe you can sneak through the center and not make any sharp turns?

Or maybe you know someone with AAA and could use one of their free tows?


As per the cam timing, yes and no. For your old settings to work the piston has to be in the exact same spot. One crank degree equals 0.000462", or .5 cam degrees. So when we eyeballed it we could have been off a little, and that would make sense being the +10 on the intake cam (but maybe the installed centerlines are not spot on with how the cam bar fits, I'm not sure on Crowers exact install specs).
Anyways, eyeballing it should come real close. If you can borrow the neighbors caliper and stick the tang down the plug hole and watch for TDC that way (normally what I do). There's about 4 degrees or so where you won't be able to see a screwdriver/other move, if you're real gentle and methodical you can feel it ever so slightly. Just work the crank back and forth a few times and you can get a feel for where TDC will be damn close.

Then pretty much move the cam gears to where they feel best, road tune. That's all I've ever done and I figure I'm very close to optimal, at least for my driving style.
Advancing the intake cam opens the valve earlier and can raise the compression, it will also lower the RPM range the cam performs best in. So if you want more high RPM power you retard the cam, but you will sacrifice a lot of bottom end TQ.
The exhaust works the same way but isn't as noticeable until you get lots of overlap.

Once you find a nice spot for the intake you take not of the difference between the two and try to hold that difference. Lets say the intake works good at +5 and the exhaust is at 0. So if you move the exhaust to -3 you'd want to move the intake to +2.
Lots of trial and error but I think the learning experience is worth it.

Depending on the weather tomorrow I might be able to come down and lend a hand. I have no access to a trailer though, the one I borrow is in Colorado right now.
--John
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Steve@Tasca
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Don't use a tow strap, there isn't anywhere safe to attach one.
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OrbitusXpandeR
Posts: 70
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 2:01 pm

I'm going to see about how soon I can use a tow after signing up for AAA :) I'd love to get this taken care of tomorrow, but I just don't think it'd be feasible for me, my dad took his truck out of town for the weekend and I can't pick up the new idler until monday anyways. hopefully I can get this taken care of on Monday or Tuesday because I'm headed to Brainerd for the nationals on Wednesday and REALLY don't feel like taking my bike. Thanks for the advice, all.

Greg
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closetfordfan
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Location: lindstrom

most rental places have tow dollys for rent for about the price you want to pay.
hafftrak
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You can use your AAA towing immediately after you sign up.
Dean

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Stilz
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closetfordfan wrote:most rental places have tow dollys for rent for about the price you want to pay.
I know Action Rental is Stillwater runs about $38 for the day. So I'm sure most places are going to be around the same for a dolly.
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