I FINALLY got around to mounting in my sway bar the other day. HOLY MOTHER OF GOD. It made such a remarkable difference, that I will say to date, it is the single best modification I have installed. I have yet to mount it to the x-member properly (fabbing some brackets tomorrow) but even free-rotating it has made a hugely noticeable difference in cornering dynamics.
Anyways, I'm going to go about mounting it a kinda ghetto way. Using stock C-clamps and bushings, I will grind down a 3" exhaust clamp to clear the oval cross member and bolt the sucker on. It's about the only way to do it, aside from swapping out the entire sub frame. I noticed Steeda now makes a retro kit, but I need this done for racing this weekend, so I will have to make these my self quick for the time being and order the kit next week.
Did I mention it made the car handle amazing?
OMFG Sway bar.
Nope he didn't. His subframe didn't even have provisions for one. Seems odd that Ford would actually make 2 different rear sub-frames. Guess it was cheaper to save the $0.18 in extra steel and $2 to weld it in place ... but who know how much on some fancy machine that diverted them.
I'm trying to picture how you're going about this Ryan. Are you using a U bolt through the metal clamp on the bushing? Or are you going around them? Wait, you don't have the metal clamps that go over the bushings do you?
I'm trying to picture how you're going about this Ryan. Are you using a U bolt through the metal clamp on the bushing? Or are you going around them? Wait, you don't have the metal clamps that go over the bushings do you?
--John
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ZX2_racer
- Posts: 1472
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- Car: Pitch Black 2007 ZX3 S
- Location: STC
- Contact:
I had Dan run down to Tousley and grab the only two brackets and bushings in Minnesota on Friday. I then used the clamp portion around the subframe and put some long bolts through the holes and bolted it down. Worked perfect for a quick fix. Stop the knock and the car handles like a dream. Ran a 2:06.455 on the road course flying, and a 2:04.453 from a stop (one corner was not timed.) I was able to break 100mph on the track down the big straight and through the long sweeper (turn 2).
In comparison, a mostly stock Colbalt SS with Nitto N-1's only broke 1.59, and I think I could get a 2:04 flying lap with more practice.
And about the sway bar not being on, after 05 S and SE's weren't equipped with them. Only ST's and SES's had them.
In comparison, a mostly stock Colbalt SS with Nitto N-1's only broke 1.59, and I think I could get a 2:04 flying lap with more practice.
And about the sway bar not being on, after 05 S and SE's weren't equipped with them. Only ST's and SES's had them.
Eibach | Tokico | Ford Racing | Magnaflow | F2 USA | Steeda | Crane
yeah, didn't they quit putting them in all foci in like 04?
00' Kona
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Patalrob
- Borlatap
- Posts: 3559
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- Car: 06 Wagon, 02 SVTF, 00 ZX3
- Location: Aitkin, MN
Thats it?ZX2_racer wrote: Ran a 2:06.455 on the road course flying, and a 2:04.453 from a stop (one corner was not timed.)
In comparison, a mostly stock Colbalt SS with Nitto N-1's only broke 1.59, and I think I could get a 2:04 flying lap with more practice.
Last edited by Patalrob on Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
00 ZX3 "RattleTrap"
06 Wagon Doggy mover
95 Chevy Silverado Tow rig for lawn mowers
02 SVTF ...........
06 Wagon Doggy mover
95 Chevy Silverado Tow rig for lawn mowers
02 SVTF ...........
Maybe he's talking about the 100 mph number??
The new track basically took away the looong straight. It's about 30% of what it once was. A lot of noobs were carrying too much speed into Turn 1. With the expected outcome!
Haven't been to the new track yet, but it looks like a lot of fun. It went from 10 turns to 13.
The new track basically took away the looong straight. It's about 30% of what it once was. A lot of noobs were carrying too much speed into Turn 1. With the expected outcome!
Haven't been to the new track yet, but it looks like a lot of fun. It went from 10 turns to 13.
05 Pitch Black ST
04 Sangria Red ZTS
01 CD Silver ZX3
04 Sangria Red ZTS
01 CD Silver ZX3
Actually a way better way to mount the sway and its easy and cheap. think it cost me about 12 bucks
parts you'll need...
believe I used 3/8 fine thread bolts 3/4 long ( may need to check, think I used 1 inch for the top ones)
flange nuts
trailer tongue jack mounting plates ( the ones that go on the other side of the tongue from the jack, see pic. make sure to get the thick metal ones)
you'll notice the holes in the plates are exactly where needed for the bushing mounts. assemble the sway bar assy to the plates and tack weld the flange nuts solid (the top ones you wont be able to get at again).
you'll notice the plates are long, mark them at the bottom of the bushing mount and use a hacksaw or chopsaw to cut, file the edges smooth.
Now crawl under the car and look at the crossmember and you'll notice a hole on each side. grab the sway bar assy still mounted to the plates and set the ends on top of the a=arms. your top bolts which should be sticking out of the nuts a half inch or so can be put in the holes. hold it there and have someone tack the plates to the sub frame solid. unmount the sway from them and weld solid to the subframe (outboard sides are best done with a stick welder, another mount sticks out about 1/2 inch from the side of these. we got about a 3/4 bead on this side and its still holding fine 3 yrs later). Oh, and they wont slip like the steedas which most end up welding to prevent.
now you have solid factory style sway mounts. assemble your sway and go have fun.
parts you'll need...
believe I used 3/8 fine thread bolts 3/4 long ( may need to check, think I used 1 inch for the top ones)
flange nuts
trailer tongue jack mounting plates ( the ones that go on the other side of the tongue from the jack, see pic. make sure to get the thick metal ones)
you'll notice the holes in the plates are exactly where needed for the bushing mounts. assemble the sway bar assy to the plates and tack weld the flange nuts solid (the top ones you wont be able to get at again).
you'll notice the plates are long, mark them at the bottom of the bushing mount and use a hacksaw or chopsaw to cut, file the edges smooth.
Now crawl under the car and look at the crossmember and you'll notice a hole on each side. grab the sway bar assy still mounted to the plates and set the ends on top of the a=arms. your top bolts which should be sticking out of the nuts a half inch or so can be put in the holes. hold it there and have someone tack the plates to the sub frame solid. unmount the sway from them and weld solid to the subframe (outboard sides are best done with a stick welder, another mount sticks out about 1/2 inch from the side of these. we got about a 3/4 bead on this side and its still holding fine 3 yrs later). Oh, and they wont slip like the steedas which most end up welding to prevent.
now you have solid factory style sway mounts. assemble your sway and go have fun.