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rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:07 am
by cohenj87
so i messed my car up and was told it was a snapped rod. how can i tell forsure that it is a snapped rod and what will it cost to fix this. i was told people charge around 1500 to rebuild a motor so for that price i might as well find a shirt block. i wanna do it as cheap as possible. my cousins can put the motor in for no charge and stuff but they dont rebuild motors so i wanna know what people in this area charge to do it or id it is even worth it.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:26 am
by jrscteg
what motor is it? i have a dohc 2.0 out of a zx3 sitting arund that id sell cheap...

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:27 am
by Steve@Tasca
He has an SVT, It's about $3000 for a reman Ford longblock.

You could search for a used engine but finding a used SVT engine can be tough.

If you have a broken rod you should also have a hole in the block as they usually do major damage.

How did they come to this conclusion?

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 10:27 am
by tgnorman

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:01 am
by cohenj87
they just listened to the knocking thats why i wanna know how to tell forsure.i found a short block from an svt im just waiting to talk to the guy

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:38 pm
by Steve@Tasca
If it's just knocking I'd be more inclined towards the clutch rattling, like I said before, when a rod goes on these it usually ventilates the side of the block.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:44 pm
by cohenj87
well this is what happened. i was driving it and i was in 1st gear and i was ripping on it so im not sure if it happened right before i shifted or when or right after i shifted at about 7k from 1st to 2nd it developed a knock coming from the motor and i didnt give it much but what felt like a decent loss of power. so i drove it about another mile to my friends house. the car still ran and drove fine besides the loss of power and what got to be a louder and louder knock. the clutch didnt slip or anything like that. the car will still start and run it has about 59k on it and has no mods besides a cai. my friends dad said he thought it could be a collapsed lifter. my cousins listened to hit and said that it was more than likely a thrown rod. how can i check to see if it is that or a problem with the clutch like you say? i dont wanna buy a short block and then find out its my heads or something like that messed up? thanks for all the help.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:00 pm
by Monkey-Gein
a rod would have put a hole in it with a bunch of oil. you could tell

i guess a good way to find out is to have a friend bring it to a shop and tell them he's looking at buying the car and wants to know what he's getting himself into.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:55 pm
by Steve@Tasca
It could be a bad rod bearing, that'll make a knocking noise.

Hows the oil level? These engines (any engine) are very sensitive to lack of oiling.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:12 pm
by cohenj87
as far as i know oil levels are fine. how do i check to tell if its a rod bearing? how much does one of these cost and what does it run to put in?

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:44 pm
by Pappy
Sounds like you could have possibly blown a flywheel bolt in half. It's happened to me before. It sounds EXACTLY like it's coming from the motor.

VERY loud knock.

Rip it all down and see, thats about the only way to fix it. Then buy a motor if you need one, or a clutch kit, or whatever.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:51 pm
by Patalrob
I had an extreem knock/rattle in my SVT. Loss of power unsure of though becuase that was the way I had bought it. What had fixed it was a clutch and flywheel. I never heard the car "run" so great :D

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:41 pm
by focinite
1. drain oil into a container and look for a lot of glitter in the oil. if you have flakes in the oil its most likely a bearing.
2. run a staticc compression check on all four cylinders, this will tell you if a rod pin is bad as your comp on the bad cyl will be lower than the others
3. pull the plugs and put each piston up on TDC look with a flash light for any obvious damage to piston.
4 if engine runs and has good oil and wont over heat its more likely to be a granaded clutch. 8)

also you may have two issues.
1. first check your mani rocker switch, if its broke= loss of power
2.you blew the crap out yer clutch.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 6:35 am
by cohenj87
what is tdc? ill be showing my cousins everything you guys are telling me so i wanna be as clear with them as possible. thanks alot guys.

Re: rough cost?

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:08 am
by Redlineracer12
cohenj87 wrote:what is tdc? ill be showing my cousins everything you guys are telling me so i wanna be as clear with them as possible. thanks alot guys.
top dead center. Rotate it until the current piston is at it's highest point.