Minnesota Focus Owners Club

Louis Zerr wrote: If it is rust free it is gravy work. You have to come to me though, i can do it, beer is always good payment.

nblume and i just installed the SVT set up on his car yesterday. i'm sure he'll chime in here. rusted parts are no fun to deal with, one winter i think we can handle though.

Rod

focinite wrote: just start ripin and tearing. the only thin you need to worry about is the rear spring, if you have ever done springs on an old x-body(nova,apollo,cammaro,firebird) its pretty much the same . put the car up high un four jack stands then put a floor jack under the spring bucket, jack it up till you have load the spring alittle then losen the stabalizer links and then the bolt that ataches the trailing arm to the contoll arm( the one with the spring perch) remove lower rear shock bolt, lower the jack while staying clear of the springs exit path may it chose to come out. to assemble revers steps. the fronts you may have to bring to a shop , it requires compressin the strut . but to remove the strut is easy. remove tire, then using a t-40 i think, remove caliper, then let it hang or bungy out of way. then use wd-40 soak the knuckle pinch bolt ( warm up using propane or oxy torch, i said warm not hot, the heat helps the penetrent oil soak in) and strut bottom, remove bolt. take hammer and pound firmly and squarly on the flat area ontop of knucle or use air hammer with a flat anvil bit, once the knucle has gone down a good amount start yanking lightly on strut, once the knucle is free use 13mm socket to remove three , not the center or you will need to call 911, strut nuts. same for the other side.

Louis Zerr wrote:

focinite wrote:just start ripin and tearing. the only thin you need to worry about is the rear spring, if you have ever done springs on an old x-body(nova,apollo,cammaro,firebird) its pretty much the same . put the car up high un four jack stands then put a floor jack under the spring bucket, jack it up till you have load the spring alittle then losen the stabalizer links and then the bolt that ataches the trailing arm to the contoll arm( the one with the spring perch) remove lower rear shock bolt, lower the jack while staying clear of the springs exit path may it chose to come out. to assemble revers steps. the fronts you may have to bring to a shop , it requires compressin the strut . but to remove the strut is easy. remove tire, then using a t-40 i think, remove caliper, then let it hang or bungy out of way. then use wd-40 soak the knuckle pinch bolt ( warm up using propane or oxy torch, i said warm not hot, the heat helps the penetrent oil soak in) and strut bottom, remove bolt. take hammer and pound firmly and squarly on the flat area ontop of knucle or use air hammer with a flat anvil bit, once the knucle has gone down a good amount start yanking lightly on strut, once the knucle is free use 13mm socket to remove three , not the center or you will need to call 911, strut nuts. same for the other side.

Goodness that is complicated, why would you remove the caliper if it is not necessary?? And how about the end link on the fronts? A 5mm allen and a 15mm ratcheting wrench to get that off. There are 5 bolts to get the strut to drop out. A set of spring compressors that you can borrow from auto parts stores will get the springs compressed and you only need that in the front. the rears are not under much tension after you get the proper bolts out. I think it is 2 bolts and the swaybar loosened int he back to get each spring and shock off the back. The only thing i do not have is spring compressors.

nblume wrote: Yeah rust sucks, 3 hours for one pinch nut kind of sucks.. good thing I buy replacement brand new parts all the time just in case.. ugh.

My knee has an awesome bruise on it, but I can walk on it just fine.

I had to call in sick monday because I had a huge hangover from not drinking any water when we were working on the car, I'll have to drink water next time.

Everything is still running smooth, if you need to borrow my spring compressors let me know and we can meet somewhere and you can borrow em, just don't let them shoot you in the knee, it hurts!

A mostly rust free car should take you and Rod like.. 2 hours max to do.

-Nick

MAT wrote: Thanks for the offers. Now I just have to get the kit and set it up. The repair progams the shops have estimate it's a 3 hour job plus the alingment. That's what scared me.

I was expecting a requirement for some fancy import beer but Leinies all the better! BTW - one should consider a smoky and the bandit run out west with a truck full, seems it's popular where it's not sold. Instead of a T/A maybe we could use a GT as a chase car?

Louis Zerr wrote:

focinite wrote:just start ripin and tearing. the only thin you need to worry about is the rear spring, if you have ever done springs on an old x-body(nova,apollo,cammaro,firebird) its pretty much the same . put the car up high un four jack stands then put a floor jack under the spring bucket, jack it up till you have load the spring alittle then losen the stabalizer links and then the bolt that ataches the trailing arm to the contoll arm( the one with the spring perch) remove lower rear shock bolt, lower the jack while staying clear of the springs exit path may it chose to come out. to assemble revers steps. the fronts you may have to bring to a shop , it requires compressin the strut . but to remove the strut is easy. remove tire, then using a t-40 i think, remove caliper, then let it hang or bungy out of way. then use wd-40 soak the knuckle pinch bolt ( warm up using propane or oxy torch, i said warm not hot, the heat helps the penetrent oil soak in) and strut bottom, remove bolt. take hammer and pound firmly and squarly on the flat area ontop of knucle or use air hammer with a flat anvil bit, once the knucle has gone down a good amount start yanking lightly on strut, once the knucle is free use 13mm socket to remove three , not the center or you will need to call 911, strut nuts. same for the other side.

Goodness that is complicated, why would you remove the caliper if it is not necessary?? And how about the end link on the fronts? A 5mm allen and a 15mm ratcheting wrench to get that off. There are 5 bolts to get the strut to drop out. A set of spring compressors that you can borrow from auto parts stores will get the springs compressed and you only need that in the front. the rears are not under much tension after you get the proper bolts out. I think it is 2 bolts and the swaybar loosened int he back to get each spring and shock off the back. The only thing i do not have is spring compressors.

Louis Zerr wrote: Yes my car is on stands, but wait, the time will come for it to reveal itself, oh and the end link nut is a 15mm, not 17, that'll just spin a while.