Minnesota Focus Owners Club

ok, i thought i was answering the voltage problem, not a lean fuel issue.
recap, what's going on now.....

Read through the post. It runs very good at times, then sucks at others. replaced the MAF and seems better yet, might be a problem with those wires still though.

Checked the alternator and its fine. Getting pissed of at this piece of shit krypto sold me.
No fuckin luck at all.

Brother thinks the MAF is telling the comp that its takin in less air. He thinks something is wrong with the wiring or MAF part of the computer.


On the side that doesnt have wires hooked up the the computer there is an open spot that looks like something is missing.
at this point i have no fucking clue what it is.


No damn clue why this thing dont run right.
Please help me.

Its supposed to be 2.8g but mine starts at 2.4 and sinks from there at an idle to .99g. Which then the comp starts leaning it out because it thinks there is less air going in.

zx3pos wrote:On the side that doesnt have wires hooked up the the computer there is an open spot that looks like something is missing.
at this point i have no fucking clue what it is.

Can you get a pic of this? Maybe someone here can see what's missing.

zx3pos wrote:Getting pissed of at this piece of shit krypto sold me.
No fuckin luck at all.

You bought it and got a really damn good deal, plus it came with SVT suspension and a turbo manifold. You could part it out for way more then you paid for it so shut the fuck up!

hafftrak wrote:

zx3pos wrote:On the side that doesnt have wires hooked up the the computer there is an open spot that looks like something is missing.
at this point i have no fucking clue what it is.

Can you get a pic of this? Maybe someone here can see what's missing.

I bet it looks like this:



If so, that means it was opened up for a chip. If there's no chip there, it'll be back to the stock tune.

Just for reference, here's what that one looks like with an SCT 4-bank chip in it:

zx3pos wrote:Getting pissed of at this piece of shit krypto sold me.

You really shouldn't bag on someone just because you're having problems. From what I can tell, you got a deal on it and you knew it had problems. Do the normal tests such as voltage, compression, vacuum leaks, etc. If you can't find anything conclusive from error codes or tests you should start replacing sensors that are failure prone such as MAF, TPS, or O2 since any failure from those sensors will cause error codes and make the car run like shit.

I had my MAF unplugged while I was working under the hood the other day and forgot to plug it back in when I was done. Guess what happened? I got a CEL and it ran terrible. I stopped the car, plugged in the MAF, and it ran like a new car. Your problem is likely something simple.

Have you checked the timing? That would be another worthwhile check. Basically you need to look at the diagnostic codes and rule out possibilities one by one, one code at a time.

I wasnt baggin on anyone. the car is a piece.
Every sensor in it is fine.
Everything is hooked up.
Timing must be fine if it runs great at times, then not at others.

He must have sold it for a reason, and given such a steal of a deal.

Harold that is exactly what it looks like. Thanks man.

As everyone states on here it should run without the EGR shit.
Maybe I have to unplug that sensor for it to stop. bet that will make no difference though.

Please read all of my posts, and if you can help or have had similar problems, please send any advice my way.

It might run without the EGR stuff but it's going to have a CEL forever without it unless it's shut off in the tune.

It's not a race car, it's a street car and you shouldn't have to screw around with "dealing with" stuff because systems have been deleted.

What one person considers a minor inconvenince could be a massive annoyance for someone else.

Your best bet is to get in touch with Al and get all the missing parts and reinstall it, you're pretty much going to have to fix one thing at a time until it's all done.

zx3pos wrote:Seems very logical. Today i checked the volts to the fpr for shits and giggles.
I dont think 8.7 volts is correct.

Something is up.

Well, you really haven't explained this yet. The FPR is a 5 Volt sensor. If you see 8.7 Volts on it something is defiantly wrong there, or whatever you're using for a scan tool is wrong. DVOM and probe the connector should be able to confirm or deny the scan tool being wrong.

I mean if something seems wrong, investigate further.

Do this, log the battery/alternator voltage. Graph if possible. I'll bet the alt voltage varies more than it should and everything is suffering because of it.


This isn't the yellow zx3 Chris had is it?
Cus if you got that car you're a fuckin moron for bitching.

Well if you were in my shoes, you wouldnt be saying tht.

Don't really wanna step in, but this is getting a little ridiculous. You didn't have to buy the damn car, I don't know the full story behind the condition, but it sounds like you got a nice deal.

That said, if you need help wrenching or just someone to bounce ideas off of, I'd be happy to help....hours got cut next week and I've got spring break. Gonna be boring....

the car is in isanti mn.
next week is pretty empty for me too,

are you sure everything is hooked up, and all the fuses are good?

car ran fine for me tell I put belt on and O2 in. I never really got around to it after that. I would say your problem is connected to that some how.