Minnesota Focus Owners Club

umdivx wrote: Nils,
Chuck over at BF can make the mani for under $300.00 if thats a consideration. But you could also have Zurno use his magic Euro parts finding skills and get an RS mani.

- Josh

I'm honestly not 100% in love with chucks manis. His welds like to break... a lot.

Pappy wrote:

umdivx wrote:Nils,
Chuck over at BF can make the mani for under $300.00 if thats a consideration. But you could also have Zurno use his magic Euro parts finding skills and get an RS mani.

- Josh

I'm honestly not 100% in love with chucks manis. His welds like to break... a lot.

haha good to know.

- Josh

Pappy wrote:

umdivx wrote:Nils,
Chuck over at BF can make the mani for under $300.00 if thats a consideration. But you could also have Zurno use his magic Euro parts finding skills and get an RS mani.

- Josh

I'm honestly not 100% in love with chucks manis. His welds like to break... a lot.

+2

My brother has had 2 manifolds from him, and both have cracked. He did fix them, no charge.

or if you were to know that a higher nickel content is getter for heat... tig welding a mani is cake, use stainles tube and a nickel welding/filler rod. also good prep and joint forming are important, if you weld the tube straight to the flange it will crack, you must tuck the tube through the flange and peen the edge over on the back side of the flange ,run a fusion weld(no rod) ,grind fairly flat, then weld on the face (the side away from the head) of the flange and tubes, same as the turbo mount flange. all joints must have angles ground into them for the max penitration, and again use a good nickel rod.. sorry i went off on a tangent..i was a welder fabricator long before i was a wench

The toys came today

focinite wrote: or if you were to know that a higher nickel content is getter for heat... tig welding a mani is cake, use stainles tube and a nickel welding/filler rod. also good prep and joint forming are important, if you weld the tube straight to the flange it will crack, you must tuck the tube through the flange and peen the edge over on the back side of the flange ,run a fusion weld(no rod) ,grind fairly flat, then weld on the face (the side away from the head) of the flange and tubes, same as the turbo mount flange. all joints must have angles ground into them for the max penitration, and again use a good nickel rod.. sorry i went off on a tangent..i was a welder fabricator long before i was a wench

Wait a minute, Who typed that for you. If I didn't know better I'd think you knew what you were taliking about.

I need someone to cut the tip off my Borla, shorten it and weld it back on. You still have equipment for welding stainless?

So the guy I picked the manifold up tells me it's made of " high temp stainless steel"....not cast iron.....all I know is it's a heavy little booger

FORDSVTPARTS wrote:

focinite wrote:or if you were to know that a higher nickel content is getter for heat... tig welding a mani is cake, use stainles tube and a nickel welding/filler rod. also good prep and joint forming are important, if you weld the tube straight to the flange it will crack, you must tuck the tube through the flange and peen the edge over on the back side of the flange ,run a fusion weld(no rod) ,grind fairly flat, then weld on the face (the side away from the head) of the flange and tubes, same as the turbo mount flange. all joints must have angles ground into them for the max penitration, and again use a good nickel rod.. sorry i went off on a tangent..i was a welder fabricator long before i was a wench

Wait a minute, Who typed that for you. If I didn't know better I'd think you knew what you were taliking about.

I need someone to cut the tip off my Borla, shorten it and weld it back on. You still have equipment for welding stainless?

no sir i do not...wish i did, cus id be makin turbo manis all day long!!!! my next challange is to learn to weld tittainum... but at one time i was certed in smaw( sheilded metal arc welding), mig( metal inert gas ) ,tig (tungsten inert gas), oxy welding/cutting, submerged flux, medical stainless and a full metalurgy cert.. all by the age of 22, it got boring so i fix cars now! but if you can find the tools i can weld like no ones bidness!!

Another RS goodie has been collected; an RS downpipe/cat. Now I know it won't flow like a 3" cat delete down pipe,
but I really don't care. Anyone who would buy this has to have something else in mind. I don't know. Maybe it is because I'm older with a kid and if I have a choice, I'll choose to stay as green if I can.

From what I have read about this piece, it is again, a special design for the RS. So, I suspect the power loss may not be catastrophic. So now I'm working on a Mafia, injectors, and turbo piping. I guess I'll have to pick up a generic piping kit.
As far as a fmic goes, for the low boost, it won't be necessary. However, if something comes along, you just never know what I'll do.

I don't know if they would help but I can get you the catalog illustrations of the RS turbo setup.

Let me know.

FORDSVTPARTS wrote: I don't know if they would help but I can get you the catalog illustrations of the RS turbo setup.

Let me know.

I have a couple of routing options for piping floating around in my head. Since the RS uses the water-to-air intercooler setup, the piping will be different for sure. Hmm...let me think about it some more.

boosted wagoon of death......i love it!!!!!!!

I'm expectin' vanity plates for the wagn Chalon!!

BSTWAGN

BST WAG

BSTDWGN

BSTDWAG

SLPYWGN

LOL, that would be awesome! An awesome sleeper!

o2designs wrote: I'm expectin' vanity plates for the wagn Chalon!!

BSTWAGN

BST WAG

BSTDWGN

BSTDWAG

SLPYWGN

LOL, that would be awesome! An awesome sleeper!

HTRDWGN

heart red wagon???LOL

I know, I gettid...