cylinder head install plus other parts install/g2g

Planning the next get together, bbq, install party, etc.
OrbitusXpandeR
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jon: you could finally take that stock cylinder head if you wanted!


Greg
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Stilz
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iminhell wrote:Think he's referring to like last time.
If people really knew how nice of a guy Greg was they'd bend over backwards ... and his dad's a hell of a cook!
lol, sorry, I wasn't around for the last one. However I remember meeting him up on Uni one day, and I would have to second the awesomeness. lol
iminhell
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OrbitusXpandeR wrote:john: you could finally take that stock cylinder head if you wanted!


Greg

Well if you're going to twist my arm, I guess I'll have to. :lol:



Don't think I ever heard, what where the final tuned #'s with Brad's head? ... and why the switch to the FR head? (big valve FR head I hope)
--John
OrbitusXpandeR
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well with the cam's tuned and a generic sct tune i hit 159hp and 136tq at about 6800rpms and I started going lean from there but because it took so long to build torque it was pretty much undrivable under 3500rpms. Everything I've read has shown or stated that the FR head, even with a little porting, tends to build better torque sooner. I'm not looking for stock drivability but it's a little embarrassing having to wind so far out at every stoplight I come to just to get moving. I also snapped yet another tensioner pulley off which is stuck in the head. I don't want to deal with trying to get the remainder of the bolt out. And bacause I'm hoping to be turbocharged by not this coming but the next summer, as was pointed out by a lot of research, the bigger valves help a lot more than just porting, and I don't feel like investing even more money into a used head. So I'm going to pick the FR unit up from Steve tomorrow and head straight to MAPerformance so they can do a little more portwork and all the thermal/friction coating I want. I picked up some brand new #30 injectors so I could fix the lean issue but Haven't had time or money to take the MAF to get tuned to the injectors. I've also been trying to get my hands on the CFM oil pump gears so I can rev out past 7k, and I though I found one on ebay last week, but it turned out they ran out of stock as well and forgot to pull it off. And the driver side engine mount finally shredded because of the crowers II's so I just bought the full set of poly-mounts.
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iminhell
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geeze ...
Here I thought the car was running well and you where having so much fun driving that you didn't have time to post. Didn't realize the car was being a bastard (I know the feeling).

The tensioner, I've got an idea you can try. It's not permanent but it locks the tensioner in place. That's how I believe mine's surviving. The spring inside just can't take good cams or overlap IMO. I've been unable to find a suitable replacement or a stiffer spring.

You shouldn't need a 30# MAFS and actually with a MAFS matching the injectors you'll lean out more (no tune) than you do now. The ECU has to be programmed only, MAF transfer function I think it's called. Not sure what you can all do with the Xcal or if Randy has to send a new tune.
I have a Pro-M 24# and my 19# MAFS now. I'll bring both and we'll swap so you can see what happens.

Oil pump, I'm still not convinced it's the answer. Plus our cars don't make tons more power with RPM like a Honda/Toyota/Mitsu ... all come from variable cam timing or Vtec. Even if you do the RPM drop between gears is too much. Need a closer ratio to make the power move you better (which is where Honda excels).
The pictures of the busted CFM gear that was on FJ (think the thread got locked and maybe deleted) broke in the thinnest spot of the outer gear. IMO this was caused by the balance/harmonics of the engine. Happens to be the same spot the stock gear breaks. That makes me think it has more to do with engine balance being off some, and exponential growth with RPM.
I look at it as I can pick up a JY engine cheaper than the CFM pump, if my stock pump fails most of my parts should be fine and I'll just swap. Being I haven't broke anything major yet I'm willing to chance it (but I did have Steve price me out a new factory oil pump, which I plan on replacing this spring).
Oil starvation and pump cavitation are 2 other things that you may have to worry about with more RPM. Haven't heard any problems with either, but most don't look for them either.
--John
OrbitusXpandeR
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Well technically it WAS running well. In between tensioners snapping off that is. It just didn't drive in a manner I can deal with. I used to own a 90 fox body with a REAL aggressive NA setup, so I'm no stranger to difficult to drive vehicles, this just seemed a little absurd to me.

With the livewire I have I think I can add or subtract up to ten percent to the fuel trim. I think, I haven't played with it in a while.

According to the dyno's (which I can show you later) had I not leaned out I probably would have maxed out at +7500rpms. So I don't plan on aiming much higher than that if at all, but I Just don't trust that pressed steel enough to leave it in there at those levels. Are both of those MAFs pro-m? Cause that's what I've got in there now, tuned to #19. I still haven't hooked up my wideband either :) I'm such a slacker


Greg
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iminhell
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Yes both are Pro-M. Running the 24# right now (which I found brand new), E-85 and it don't seem to work as I wanted, stays real lean, no detonation though.

Did you get a controller for the wideband yet?
--John
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Beer and food?!?!?! :D
STtuner05
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ok im not going to lie i didnt read through all the posts but have we figured a time/day for this??
OrbitusXpandeR
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iminhell wrote:Yes both are Pro-M. Running the 24# right now (which I found brand new), E-85 and it don't seem to work as I wanted, stays real lean, no detonation though.

Did you get a controller for the wideband yet?
yeah, i got it finally. And we settled on the 29th (Sat). Don't know what time everyone else feels like showing up but I'll probably get started around 9am or so. Can't Imagine everyone else would want to get up that early on a day off, though :D

Greg
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Dang. I'll be in Iowa for Drill from the 28th to the 6th. I'm out.
STtuner05
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OrbitusXpandeR wrote:
iminhell wrote:Yes both are Pro-M. Running the 24# right now (which I found brand new), E-85 and it don't seem to work as I wanted, stays real lean, no detonation though.

Did you get a controller for the wideband yet?
yeah, i got it finally. And we settled on the 29th (Sat). Don't know what time everyone else feels like showing up but I'll probably get started around 9am or so. Can't Imagine everyone else would want to get up that early on a day off, though :D

Greg
ill see if i can get down there for a little while, i have a casino cruise with the mnsubaru guys that day too.
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Steve@Tasca
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Between my schedule and my wifes I hardly have time to do anything besides work and take care of the kids. :?
Tasca Auto Group- Employee pricing on all parts.
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http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/i ... eid=213668

1-800-598-1484 or spowell@tasca.com
OrbitusXpandeR
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Bad news, for me anyways. Despite having the head for two weeks and guaranteeing me they would have it ready this week, I was just told it wouldn't be ready until next tuesday (Feb 1st). Going to have to reschedule. I hope this doesn't majorly affect anyone who was planning on coming, but it's out of my hands. Would anybody be free the following saturday? Feb 5th?

Greg
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bflesher
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I would be. Although be warned i'm not a mechanic, more of a backyard hack. Would you need nay tools as in timing bar/pin or anything?
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